Easily handles larger cuts with a powerful motor and multi-knife cutter head.
Blades can dull fairly quickly, especially on bigger cuts.
Great basic planer for the home shop. Twin knife set-up is easy to change. Reversible knives extend useful life. A cheap, reliable workhorse.
Not much, though play in the cutter head means it lacks the accuracy for precision work.
Distances itself from competitors with an easy blade-change system and quiet operation.
Several customers wish it came with a dust-collection shroud.
This PORTER-CABLE planer features high-carbon steel, double-edged reversible cutting knives that offer twice the durability of other models. The rapid cutting head produces 16,000 cuts per minute, and the gearbox is manufactured to deliver maximum durability.
The snipe on this planer can be a little aggressive if you're not careful when feeding in the board.
The boards often come out of this planer so smooth that they do not need to be sanded. An efficient dust collection system ensures this unit operates cleanly. The positive stop feature can be a time saver when working on multiple boards that need to be the same thickness.
This helical style planer has a steeper price tag than the other models in our shortlist.
If you've ever worked with wood, you know that the quality of the job can only be as good as the quality of the wood. If two boards don't line up because one is thicker, your work ends up looking sloppy and amateurish. A planer lets you achieve expert craftsmanship with every project because it helps you create uniform pieces.
Although handheld planers definitely have their purpose and in certain situations can produce better results, a benchtop unit is the way to go if you're serious about your woodwork. You'll want a model that doesn't produce irregularities like scallops and snipes, which necessitates more sanding afterward. Having a depth gauge and using a double-edged carbide blade are highly recommended.
If you're ready to purchase, consider one of our top picks. If you desire more information, however, continue reading to receive a more in-depth education about the features you'll want your planer to have.
To use a planer, you feed a board through one end of the unit. The planer shaves the board before it exits the other end.
For best results, you should try to feed it at a uniform speed. And make sure the planer’s blades are cutting with the grain to avoid nicks in the wood.
A modern power planer makes use of a spinning cutterhead. The cutterhead removes small pieces from the face of the board as the planer works along the length of the board. This inevitably results in a flurry of shavings and dust.
Setting the planer to work at a deep depth will create a rougher finish on the board. A shallow depth creates a smoother finish.The latter requires less sanding, so you may wish to use multiple shallow planer cuts.
A typical planer designed for at-home use cuts the surface of the wood at a maximum depth of 1/8th of an inch.
Small planers may top out at cuts of 1/16th of an inch. Large planers designed for professional use are able to make deeper cuts, typically 3/16th of an inch.
Some pro-style tools can even cut as deeply as 1/4th of an inch.
Benchtop planers offers some performance-oriented advantages over handheld planers. But handheld planers have their strengths, too. We’ll discuss aspects of each type here.
Benchtop planers typically sport motors with at least 10 amps. Handheld planers have much smaller motors. This helps keep the unit’s weight down.
Most benchtop planers can make cuts as deep as 1/8th of an inch. Handheld planers are typically limited to 1/16th of an inch or shallower. A deeper cut will save you time when planing really rough boards, as you’ll need fewer passes.
Most benchtop planers can manage boards that are 10 to 15 inches wide. Most motorized handheld planers are limited to boards no more than 3.25 inches wide. However, this is enough to accommodate a 2x4 piece of lumber — and for some people, that’s good enough.
Benchtop planers are heavy; you can expect a unit of this type to weigh 50 pounds or more. We recommend a benchtop model for users who want a stationary workshop tool. Handheld planers weigh much less — 5 to 10 pounds — and are easy to transport. We recommend this type of tool for those who may travel from jobsite to jobsite.
Benchtop planers run on electrical power. They don’t require high-voltage outlets; a typical household outlet will suffice. Some handheld planers also run on outlet power; others use rechargeable batteries. And, of course, a manual handheld planer doesn’t require any electrical power.
Benchtop planer prices run anywhere from $200 to $800. You’ll pay less than $200 for a handheld planer with a motor — and often less than $100. Manual planers, which easily cost less than $100 are the cheapest planers.
Benchtop planers aren’t quite as powerful as the planers used by professional woodworkers. But they do a solid job with all types of wood.
Our advice: before you invest in a costly benchtop planer, make sure your woodworking needs are heavy enough to justify the cost.
One area that differentiates planer units is their cut quality. You’re going to want to find a planer that provides high-quality cuts, avoiding problems with scallops and snipe.
Scallops result when a planer causes slight gouges in the wood. It almost looks like the washboarding you’d see on a well-traversed gravel road. The more scallops a planer leaves in the wood, the more time you’ll have to spend sanding them down.A low-quality planer can cause scalloping, as can a high-quality planer with dull blades. To minimize scalloping, consider a planer with a high-powered motor and multiple blades. This type of tool will cause fewer scallops than a handheld unit.
Snipe is a slight gouge at the end of boards. As the board begins to pass through the planer, it may jump just slightly as the planer grabs the wood. This results in a slightly deeper cut than what occurs on the remainder of the board.
Handheld planers are less likely cause snipe than benchtop units. That’s because the board receives support through the entire process with a handheld unit.
Most types of snipe can be sanded out relatively easily.
When shopping for a planer, pay attention to these key features, all of which can make your woodworking tasks easier and faster.
Blade type: If you want the very best blade for your planer, select a double-edged carbide blade. Another option is high-speed steel, or HSS. These blades adequately suit woodworkers with light-duty needs.
Depth gauge: Although a planer with a depth gauge may cost a bit more, it’s a nice feature to have. A depth gauge allows you to make planing cuts at a specific depth. Limiting the depth of cut reduces your chances of snipe and scallop problems.
Depth stop: A depth stop allows you to set the desired thickness for a board and maintain that thickness on subsequent boards.
Planers aren’t overly noisy or hard to control. This fools some woodworking novices into thinking they’re not dangerous. But the blades on a planer spin fast, and they’re extremely sharp.
Follow these safety tips to avoid serious injury —
Keep the area clear:
You’ll be moving back and forth quite a bit while using a planer. Keep the floor around your workbench free of objects that could cause you to trip or slip. This includes the power cord.
Maintain full control of the planer:
Whether you’re using a handheld or benchtop planer, keep both hands on the tool at all times. One-handed operation is never recommended.
Wait for a full power down:
If you need to check the blades for clogs, power the unit down first. Wait for the cutter blade to completely stop spinning before you inspect the unit.
Wear safety goggles and other protective gear:
Wear safety goggles to avoid an unwanted encounter with flying wood chips or dust. If you’re going to be working for an extended period, you may also wish to wear a breathing mask and ear protection.
Q. How do I know which type of planer is best for me?
A. The choice between a handheld or benchtop planer depends on your specific needs.
If you have lots of boards to plane, a benchtop unit provides a fast, efficient solution. Benchtop planers are designed to remain in the workshop.
If you want a planer you can carry to different locations, consider a handheld unit.
Q. When should I migrate to a professional-grade planer?
A. For most people using a planer at home, a benchtop or handheld unit offers plenty of power. But some people — like those with frequent planer needs — want even more power. In cases like these, a stationary planer is an option.
These heavy-duty tools can accommodate wood up to 24 inches in width, whereas benchtop units usually max out around 10 to 15 inches. A professional unit can also make cuts that are a bit deeper than benchtop units — up to around ¼ inch.
If you find yourself unable to perform planing jobs as quickly as you’d like, you may wish to consider a pro-style planer.
Q. What should I look for when it comes to dust collection?
A. Without some sort of dust collection facility, you’ll likely end up with dust in your face. No planer is perfect when it comes to collecting dust, but they do offer attachments that will help.
Some benchtop planers sport a hood that directs the dust into a collection area.
Others include a hose attachment for collecting dust.
Both handheld and benchtop planers may also include a dust bag.
Q. What are some of the top brands of planers?
A. Many of the world’s top power tool companies also participate in the planer market. Some of the best brand names for planers are Black & Decker, Bosch, Dewalt, Makita, Porter-Cable, Powertec, Ryobi, SKIL, and Wen.
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