A sturdy, full-trailering stability kit.
Also includes front tire strap, rear ratchet tie-downs, and mounting plate. For use with bikes of all sizes. Easy to install and mount/dismount a bike. Very sturdy. D-rings with backing plates included.
Minimal instructions on how to use. Strap ratchets are not the best quality. Some found this hard to use with a narrow trailer.
A unique design with the limited application of holding the rear wheel of a motorcycle.
Good, stable design to hold a variety of different motorcycle types. Uses a locking gate to keep the wheel in place while in use. Mounting holes will allow you to fasten the chock down to a trailer or deck.
Limited use given motorcycle-specific design.
A great option that is easy to set up.
Can hold up to 1,800 pounds. Can adjust to fit thin or wide tires. Cradle will lock itself so the bike is secure when tire is in place. Made from steel with multiple anchor points to keep bike upright.
Has to be permanently mounted to the floor.
A sturdy model that will get the job done affordably.
Easy to assemble. Will fit a majority of bike sizes with ease. Solid steel construction made to hold up lighter-weight bikes. Will hold up to 5.5" tires. Affordable price point.
Does not come with hardware to mount it to the floor.
These will hold your bike in place regardless of your location.
Simple pyramid design will stop your bike from moving when you are taking a break. Easily transportable to allow user to place/use them in any location. Rubber traction provides grip even in poor weather conditions.
Some of the reviewers thought the rubber smell was too strong.
We recommend these products based on an intensive research process that's designed to cut through the noise and find the top products in this space. Guided by experts, we spend hours looking into the factors that matter, to bring you these selections.
For most people, a motorcycle wheel chock is a device that helps secure your bike on a pickup, van, or trailer to get it safely from point A to point B. It’s certainly what they’re designed for, but it’s not all they offer.
A growing number of motorcycles don’t have a full stand, and often you want your bike upright when you work on it. A wheel chock can do that. Many can take the front or rear wheel, giving you added versatility. Then there’s the anti-theft aspect. Bolt a wheel chock to your garage floor, and then chain your motorcycle to it. It’s an extra deterrent, particularly with off-road or pit bikes that would otherwise be easy to lift into a thief’s waiting vehicle.
There are lots of small differences between motorcycle wheel chocks, but basically, they’re divided into two types: those that don’t lock the wheel in place and those that do.
Non-locking: These are basically little more than a steel hoop that the wheel rests inside. They hold the bike roughly upright, depending on the width of the frame and the relative size of the tire. However, on even a slight incline, your motorcycle could roll free and fall over. Using tie-down straps in addition to the wheel chock is always recommended when transporting the motorcycle, but with these models, it’s an absolute must.
Locking: The locking (also called pivoting) type of wheel chock uses a very simple and straightforward principle: as your motorcycle wheel rolls over a hinged plate, the weight causes the plate to clamp up behind the wheel. A front hoop or V-shaped barrier stops it from moving forward. Although the term “locking” is widely used, there isn’t an actual lock, so “automatic clamping” might be a better description. While the wheel is certainly held firmly, modest backward force is all that’s normally required to release it. Most chocks of this type have a degree of adjustability to suit different sizes of motorcycle wheels.
Tire width is also a consideration. Some custom motorcycles — classic “choppers,” for example — have quite narrow front wheels. Non-locking chocks could allow the bike more freedom of movement than you want, potentially causing damage. The locking versions restrict that. It’s perhaps not a big deal if you’re using the motorcycle wheel chock at home, but it’s an important difference if you and your bike are on the move.
Motorcycle wheel chocks are usually fabricated from aluminum or steel. Aluminum has the advantage of being quite a lot lighter, and it doesn’t rust, but it isn’t as strong. If you have a lightweight motorcycle, aluminum is a viable option. With big cruisers or touring motorcycles, we’d be inclined to go with steel.
We did find one manufacturer making plastic wheel chocks, which it claims are kinder to tires. However, these chocks do need to be a very precise fit for the wheels, and there’s no adjustability. Given that the range is limited, and the plastic chocks are no cheaper than steel ones, we can’t really see a good reason for choosing them.
Durability: Check that the material has a substantial cross section so it’s not going to bend easily. Look for good weld quality. If you choose steel chocks, they might be painted or powder coated. The latter is much more durable. Areas that hinge should have plenty of support because they will wear more quickly.
Safety: Check that no part of the structure is likely to foul the motorcycle’s brake rotor or mudguards.
Adjustments: How easy is wheel-size adjustment? Snap fasteners speed things up.
Supports: Some chocks have arms that extend to the side. These provide additional support to combat the forces generated when you turn a corner and prevent the bike from toppling to the left or right. These supports often have small adjustable feet to compensate for any irregularities in the vehicle floor.
Fitting kit: If you’re going to permanently fit the chock into a vehicle, it may just be a question of bolting it down. Some have a fitting kit. Check if one is included in the price. Some fitting kits allow for fast removal, which is useful if you want to transport motorcycles in more than one vehicle.
Ratchet straps: Rhino USA Heavy-Duty Ratchet Tie-Down Kit
If you’re transporting your motorcycle in a truck or van, your wheel chock will keep it upright, but you still need to secure it properly. A set of good ratchet straps is indispensable. We like these from Rhino because the material is extremely tough (over 5,000-pound breaking strength), the hooks are coated for durability, and the chunky handles make for fast, easy tightening even when you’re wearing gloves.
Motorcycle lock: AKM Security Bike Lock and Chain
Disc and handlebar locks are convenient to carry around, but serious motorcycle thieves can simply lift your bike and throw it in a van. For top protection at home, bolt your wheel chock into the floor, then chain your motorcycle to it with this cut-resistant, hardened-steel chain and shackle. It provides added security when you’re out on the road, too, giving you the option of attaching your bike to an immovable object.
Inexpensive: The cheapest steel tube-type motorcycle wheel chocks cost less than $20. Though some are well made and nicely finished, they are more of a wheel rest and don’t actually secure the wheel. If it’s all you need, the better ones are around $35.
Mid-range: Chocks that actually lock your wheel in position start at around $50, with lots of choices between that and around $90. These are basic but strong and offer plenty of support.
Expensive: Heavy-duty motorcycle wheel chocks and those with extension bars for greater flexibility of fitting position cost anywhere from $150 to $250. A few include tie-down straps to give you complete transportation security in one kit.
If you just need a simple wheel rest for a dirt bike or other relatively lightweight model, the Pit Posse Wheel Chock offers options for either permanent or removable fitting, and all the mounting hardware is included.
The kafe Motorcycle Wheel Chock is ideal if you need to transport motorcycles in different vehicles. Extension bars are used to stretch across to the sides of the vehicle bed or trailer, and outriggers keep it stable without the need to bolt it down. It will fit a floor space anywhere from 51 to 87 inches wide, though it doesn’t actually lock the wheel, so tie-downs are vital.
Q. How do I know if the wheel chock is strong enough for my motorcycle?
A. Almost all manufacturers provide a weight rating, and it’s good to have a safety margin. We looked into motorcycle weights, and the heaviest we found was the Harley-Davidson CVO Road Glide Ultra at around 960 pounds. Given that most chocks are good for 1,500 pounds or more, you should be fine whatever you ride. However, it’s also important to make sure the chocks have adequate strength and durability.
Q. Is it easy to fit a motorcycle wheel chock to my truck?
A. If you’re comfortable with a basic tool set, it shouldn’t present a problem. All the models we looked at had holes for bolting them down, so it’s a question of finding bolts of a suitable length and holes in your truck or van to fit them. Many people fit a plywood subfloor rather than drill through the vehicle’s bodywork. The alternative is something like the kafe wheel chock, which has extension bars designed to fit across the bed of your truck or trailer. Permanent fixing isn’t necessary.
Q. What’s the difference between a wheel chock and a wheel dock?
A. Though they sound similar (we have heard motorcycle wheel chocks called wheel docks), in general, the term “wheel dock” means a circular device designed to stop a trailer’s tongue wheel (the small front one) from sinking into soft ground.