Comes equipped with a weight-integrated Buoyancy Control Device (BCD), Nitrox Leonardo Computer Console that has a depth gauge, AC2 Compact Regulator, and Yoke Compact Octopus with Hose, all conveniently combined in a neoprene carrying case.
Dive computer screen may become foggy after extended use.
Equipped with a low-pressure hose and silicone mouthpiece helps avert the bubbles from your face, pushing them to the side. The valve is nickel-plated brass to allow for simple breathing gas flow.
Hose needs replacement after many uses.
This versatile design can also be used as a trip regulator and is perfect to assist a diving buddy if their tank fails. Created with an internal heat exchange and sensitive exhalation effort to decrease the amount of power it takes to inhale and exhale.
Tends to free flows no matter what position the switch is in.
This package deal is a great bargain for a well-known scuba brand. The BCD jacket comes with 3 dump valves, one on each shoulder and one on the rear right air cell, and it's also equipped with extra padding for comfort. Includes a regulator, pressure gauge, and high-pressure hose.
Buoyancy control device (BCD) power inflator can become damaged after excessive use.
This non-adjustable, 2nd stage regulator is perfect for diving, snorkeling, and spearfishing. Does an excellent job of reducing the pressure of gas you are going to breathe and balancing the surrounding pressure.
Doesn't allow manually increasing breathing resistance.
We recommend these products based on an intensive research process that's designed to cut through the noise and find the top products in this space. Guided by experts, we spend hours looking into the factors that matter, to bring you these selections.
Since humans cannot breathe underwater, to participate in activities that require extended periods of time being fully submerged, we invented the self‑contained underwater breathing apparatus (scuba). While there are many key components that comprise scuba gear, arguably the most important one is the regulator. Without a scuba regulator, there would be no way to get the compressed air from the tanks into your lungs.
When shopping for a scuba regulator, you'll need to keep a few things in mind. Comfort and convenience are important factors, but functionality is obviously paramount — the regulator needs to work.
Learn more about scuba regulators, including how to clean them and how often they should be inspected, as well as which features you need to consider before buying.
The job of a regulator is to take the roughly 3,000 PSI of pressurized air from a tank and step it down in two stages so it can be comfortably breathed by the diver.
First stage regulator: The first stage regulator connects directly to the air tank and reduces the pressure to approximately 140 PSI.
Second stage regulator: The second stage regulator is the one with the mouthpiece. This regulator further reduces the air pressure, so it is safe and comfortable to inhale.
Octopus: A backup second stage regulator, called an octopus, is also attached and ready to go in case of an emergency. An octopus usually has a bare minimum of features because it is not the primary second stage regulator.
The most significant differences in regulator operation are seen in the first stage regulator. This can either be an unbalanced or balanced regulator that works with a piston or a diaphragm.
Unbalanced: With an unbalanced first stage regulator, the tank pressure helps facilitate breathing. Because of this, breathing will require more effort on the diver's part as the air gets used up. In depths that are less than 100 feet, this shouldn't pose a problem. However, a diver who is swimming at deeper depths or against a current might feel a noticeable difference.
Balanced: A balanced first stage regulator is designed to have consistent performance throughout the dive, no matter how much air is in the tank. Because of this, a balanced regulator will cost a little more, but it is worth the price if you do a lot of deep diving.
Both piston and diaphragm regulators rely on reduced pressure to open a valve so the air can be released. However, the way they accomplish the task is drastically different. With a piston regulator, there is one moving part, which makes it more durable. However, the piston design relies on water to operate and may not function well in dirty or cold water. The diaphragm design has more moving parts, but water does not enter the regulator, so these models are better for use in murky or extremely cold water.
While there are many nuances that can make a diver prefer one regulator over another, all the factors come down to two broad categories: comfort and convenience.
The mouthpiece is the easiest part to replace on a regulator. How the mouthpiece fits and feels is definitely a component of comfort, but how it delivers the air is far more important. Unfortunately, you can't predict how a regulator will perform until you are actually using it in the water. Aspects to pay attention to are how consistently it functions in different swimming positions, if the pressure is comfortable for you, and how dry the regulator breathes. Additionally, you will want to have a model that doesn't produce an irritating noise, doesn’t create a stream of bubbles that obscures your vision, and is easy to purge.
When thinking about convenience, consider how many ports (where hoses can attach) the regulator has and where they are positioned. Even though you may be thinking you don't need extra ports, they can come in handy, so look for one with at least two high-pressure ports and four or more low-pressure ports. Additionally, having a first stage swivel can help allow the hoses to find their most natural orientation.
Before purchasing your first regulator, you'll need to participate in a certification class. To take that class, you'll need three basic items: diving mask, swim fins, and snorkel.
Diving mask: Kraken Aquatics Snorkel Dive Mask
This snorkel mask is manufactured using leak-proof flexible silicone and tempered glass that resists scratching and shattering. After class, you can continue to use this mask for scuba diving.
Swim fins: FINIS Long Floating Fins for Swimming and Snorkeling
These highly rated swim fins are made of soft, natural rubber and have a buoyancy that helps support the legs for proper positioning. The long blades deliver more power per kick.
Snorkel: Cressi Standard Bore Tube Snorkel
This snorkel features a large-diameter tube for ease of breathing. The soft silicone mouthpiece is comfortable enough for extended periods of use.
Regulators can be costly. They range from less than $200 to over $1,500. All regulators will do what they are designed to do across all price ranges. The difference is the ease and comfort with which they operate and a few bells and whistles that add convenience.
Inexpensive: If you are looking in the $200 range, you are probably going to find an octopus regulator. This is a very basic model that doesn't have a great many features. It is not meant to be the primary second stage regulator; it is used as a backup breathing option in the event of an emergency.
Mid-range: From $300 to $800, you will find quality regulators. These models will be sufficient for even avid divers. They are designed to deliver air comfortably into the lungs with a smooth and even flow. Some important features in this price range include the regulator being equipped with a hose that is a decent length and having an exhaust port that doesn't obscure your field of vision with bubbles every time you exhale.
High-end: Once you move beyond $800, you've begun the ascent into somewhat luxury models which may offer a greater variety of ports and a first stage swivel as well as a little style, status, and self-expression.
When scuba diving, something as seemingly innocuous as holding your breath while ascending to the surface is extremely dangerous. Following is a list of safety guidelines to follow whenever you are scuba diving. By no means is this a complete list; it is merely an introduction to help you learn some of the precautions you will need to take when using your scuba regulator.
Q. How should I clean my regulator?
A. After every dive, your regulator should be rinsed with fresh tap water to get rid of any saltwater, minerals, or chemicals that could potentially corrode your equipment. This should be done as soon after the dive as possible, so the materials do not get a chance to harden. Most dive centers (the base location for recreational divers) will have a dunk tank to clean your regulator after a dive. After rinsing (or dunking), hang your regulator up to dry — but not in the sun, as UV rays will cause the regulator to deteriorate more quickly. It is important to be careful when rinsing or dunking the first stage regulator because the dust cap may not be waterproof.
Q. Can I purchase my first and second stage regulators separately?
A. While regulator stages are available for purchase separately, it is important to remember that different types might not function optimally together. If you are new to diving, it is better (and safer) to purchase the first and second stages together to be certain that you do not run into any unforeseen complications.
Q. How often should I inspect my regulator?
A. You should inspect your regulator before each dive to be certain nothing is cracked or has any visible signs of damage. You can ask the dive center for help, if you prefer, and a member of the staff will assist you. More importantly, regulators need to be inspected and serviced at an interval that is recommended by the manufacturer. Often, divers do this at the end of the season to be sure their gear is properly cleaned and serviced before storing it for an extended period of time.
Q. How do I breathe when using a regulator?
A. It is important to remember to keep breathing when underwater — no breath holding! Additionally, a slower, deeper breathing rhythm will not only help conserve the air in your tank, it can help calm you if you experience any unease.