Buying guide for best binoculars
Whether you're watching the game from affordable seats or observing nature from a safe distance, binoculars put you right in the heart of the action. However, the pair you bring to the opera is not the same pair you'd need for stargazing. To get what's best for you, you have to understand how binoculars work.
If you're using binoculars in diminished light, you most likely want a large objective lens (the lens at the back). The further away an object is, the greater the magnification you'll need to properly see it. There are two types of binoculars to choose from, roof prism or Porro prism, but no matter which type you pick, you'll want a coated lens and a wide angle of view for the best viewing experience.
This article explains the nuances of binoculars in more detail so you can confidently choose the appropriate model for your needs. When you're ready to buy, check out the binoculars we've handpicked for you to see which is best suited for you.
Types of binoculars
There are two main types of binoculars on the market: roof prism and Porro prism.
Roof prism binoculars
Roof prism binoculars are more streamlined, with the eyepieces in line with the objective lenses at the front. While they’re less bulky and easier to hold, they cost more to make, so they tend to be pricier than Porro prism binoculars.
"If you compare the price of roof prism and Porro prism binoculars of the same image quality, the Porro prism model will be significantly less expensive."
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Porro prism binoculars
Because Porro prisms are offset from one another, Porro prism binoculars are bulky, with the objective lenses positioned farther apart than the eyepieces.
However, they’re much more affordable than their roof prism counterparts, meaning you’ll get a better image quality for your money.
We compare the pros and cons of two main types of binoculars in our research: roof prism and Porro prism binoculars.
We evaluate the degree of magnification offered by a pair of binoculars to determine the activities for which they are suitable (sporting events, stargazing, whale watching, and so on).
Portability is an important factor in our assessments of binoculars. We look at weight, size, and whether a carrying case is included with purchase.
We look at the diameter of the objective lens when evaluating binoculars. The greater the diameter, the brighter and sharper the image.
Lens coating reduces reflection and glare. Binocular lenses can be uncoated, coated, or multi-coated. In our product research, we take all coating options into account.
We consider the types of prisms binoculars have. The three main types are BaK-4, SK-15, and BK-7. BaK-4 is the prism of highest quality.
We find out how large a binocular’s exit pupil is by assessing its diameter. If you plan to use your binoculars in low light, look for a minimum exit pupil of 5 millimeters. If you’ll be using them in bright light, 2 millimeters is enough.
We find out whether the angle of view and field of view are listed in the binoculars specs. These views let you know how much scenery you’ll be able to see.
We think about the reasons why consumers buy binoculars. If you simply want to do some birdwatching, a pair for around $30 may suffice. If you need binoculars that are waterproof and fogproof for whale watching, you may want to spend a bit more.
A common consumer complaint is that binoculars are hard to focus due to a touchy focus mechanism. In our research, we find out how easy binoculars are to focus before recommending them.
What to look for when buying binoculars
Magnification and objective lens diameter
When browsing binoculars, you’ll notice they come with a set of numbers, such as 12x60 or 10x25.
The first number refers to the magnification, and the second number refers to the diameter of the objective lens.
The second number is the diameter of each objective lens in millimeters. The larger the objective lens, the more light is let into the binoculars and the brighter and sharper the image will be.
The tradeoff: Bigger objective lenses equal binoculars that are heavier, bulkier, and more difficult to keep stable without a monopod or tripod.
A pair of binoculars’ magnification is the amount of times closer the scene you’re viewing appears compared to observing with the naked eye. Binoculars with a magnification of 12x make objects appear 12 times closer than they would if you were looking at them without binoculars.
The right level of magnification depends on what you’ll be using your binoculars for. For instance, you need 3x to 5x for the theater, 7x for sporting events, 8x to 10x for birdwatching, and 10x to 30x for stargazing.
Did you know?
Objective lenses are the front lenses on a pair of binoculars, at the opposite end from the eyepieces. The objective lens diameter is sometimes referred to as the “aperture” of a pair of binoculars, so don’t be confused if you see that term used.
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Exit pupil
The exit pupil is visualized as a circle of light in the center of each eyepiece in a pair of binoculars. For any pair of binoculars you consider, the diameter of the exit pupil should be provided in the product specs. A larger diameter yields a brighter field of view. Why does this matter? In bright conditions, it doesn’t. However, if you will be using the binoculars at night or in the dark, this is an important spec to check before buying. We suggest binoculars with a minimum exit pupil of 5mm or more if you will be using them in low light.
If you will be using your binoculars in bright light only, exit pupil diameter is not as critical to your purchasing decision because even binoculars with a minimal exit pupil of 2mm will afford you a bright view.
If for some reason you are unable to find the exit pupil for a pair of binoculars, you can calculate it yourself by dividing the effective diameter of the objective lens by magnification. For example, a pair of 7x42 binoculars would have an exit pupil of 6mm.
Lens coating
The purpose of a lens coating is four-fold: to reduce glare and reflections, to make colors appear more vivid, to increase light transmission, and to improve contrast.
Lenses may be uncoated, coated (meaning they have one layer of coating), multi-coated (they have several layers of coating), or fully multi-coated (all lens surfaces inside and out have multiple layers of coating).
Prism type
You’ll find one of three types of prisms in most binoculars: BaK-4, SK-15, or BK-7. The properties to look for in a good prism are a high refractive index and a low critical angle — this means a prism can transmit with less light lost as a result of internal reflection.
BaK-4 prisms are considered the highest quality, followed by SK-15 and BK-7 prisms. That said, all are made from special optical glass, so even binoculars with BK-7 prisms provide a decent image quality.
Angle of view and field of view
Both the angle of view and the field of view express how much scenery you can see when looking through your binoculars. Some manufacturers list both of these specs, whereas others list just one.
Angle of view is measured in degrees; field of view is measured in feet. So, for most people, the field of view is more meaningful than the angle of view.
"You can see a width of 52.5 feet (16 meters) per one degree of angle of view when standing 1,000 yards (914 meters) from what you’re observing. If your binoculars have a 6° angle of view, they have a 315-foot (96 meter) field of view."
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How much should you pay for binoculars?
The price range for binoculars is wide. You can spend as little as $30 on a pair and up to well over $3,000. Here are a few guidelines.
Inexpensive
If you simply want a basic pair of binoculars for watching sports or occasional stargazing or birdwatching, you can find good budget models for $40 to $60.
Mid-range
Those who want a bit more from their binoculars in terms of durability and image quality should spend $80 to $150 on a pair.
Expensive
If you really want to go all out on waterproof, fog-proof binoculars with exceptional image quality, expect to pay $300 to $500. Unless you need professional-quality binoculars, it’s unnecessary to spend any more.
FAQ
Q. Are binoculars water-resistant?
A. Not all binoculars are waterproof, but those that are have different levels of water resistance. Those with no rating aren’t suitable for taking out on the water or in the mist or rain. Those that are rated weather-resistant can stand up to mist or light rain. Those rated waterproof are fine to use in the rain and are even submersible to a certain depth, which varies between makes and models.
Q. What's the best chassis material for a pair of binoculars?
A. There’s no single best chassis material, all have their pros and cons. Aluminum is a popular choice as it’s inexpensive and fairly light. It’s not as light as magnesium, but binoculars with a magnesium chassis will cost more. Polycarbonate is another great chassis choice as it’s corrosion-proof, strong, and weather-resistant.
Q. Do I need to use a tripod or monopod with my binoculars?
A. It can be harder to get a clear image from binoculars with a higher magnification without the use of a tripod, monopod, or another steadying device. You’ll definitely need a steadying device for any binoculars over 20x magnification. However, some users find they need a tripod for binoculars over 12x, especially when using them for long periods of time.
