Powerful with a wide variety of features to better power your tractor.
This model is designed to be efficient in a wide range of temperatures. It offers an impressive 320 CCA, which will allow you to start your machine with ease in colder temperatures.
Careless shipping can damage it, so check for leaks when it arrives.
A durable and more affordable option, depending on your needs.
Specifically designed to be shock and vibration-resistant. It offers a deep discharge recovery to help keep it functional when you run it down further than intended. With proper care, this model can last up to 5 years.
Although it should be sufficient for most models, be aware that this only offers 200 CCA.
A long-lasting option that is easy to use.
Easy to install and puts out 12 volts and 18 amps. The plastic casing is designed to ensure that the acid will never leak out. Vibration and heatproofing allow it to be durable even in warmer climates.
Some buyers claimed the actual amps were lower than presented.
A solidly built replacement option that is best suited for John Deere equipment.
This replacement option features a convenient built-in handle that makes both transport and installation easier. The spill-proof case is manufactured to be resistant to vibrations, and it has been carefully sized to have a better fit than the original.
It is important to keep this properly charged or it won't last as long as it should.
A long-lasting option that will fit into most models.
Case is meant to be completely spill-proof. The 12 volts included are enough to power your machine with ease. Can be recharged to full power up to 200 times. Folding handles allow it to sit in the engine housing without altercations.
Some customers found that it would lose charge when not in use.
We recommend these products based on an intensive research process that's designed to cut through the noise and find the top products in this space. Guided by experts, we spend hours looking into the factors that matter, to bring you these selections.
The battery of a riding lawn mower is a key part of the machine. With the right battery, you can perform a simple electric start with a key. Without the right battery, however, your riding lawn mower will not work properly.
Note that the battery of a riding lawn mower differs from the rechargeable battery found on some electric push mowers. It also differs from the battery found in a car because, unlike a car, a riding mower does not have an alternator that charges the battery as the machine operates.
A riding lawn mower battery looks pretty simple, and in some ways, it is. Simply connect the correct battery cable to the correct battery terminal and away you go. However, you can’t place just any battery in your riding lawn mower because you must use the size and design compatible with your model of mower.
Ensuring compatibility between battery and mower is the most important aspect of looking for a riding lawn mower battery. Next is the positioning of the terminals. Here are some facts you should understand about the configuration of riding mower battery terminals.
The terminals on a battery are the places where you connect the battery cables from the mower. The cables pull electrical power from the battery and deliver it to the mower’s starter.
In a mower battery, these are U-shaped pieces of metal that extend from the top of the battery case. You connect the metal ring on the end of the battery cable to the terminal with a bolt and nut.
One of the two terminals is a positive terminal, marked with a plus sign, while the other is a negative terminal, marked with a negative sign.
The two battery cables in the mower also consist of one positive and one negative. You must connect the correct cable to the correct terminal. Failure to do so could cause a massive surge in electrical power, potentially leading to a meltdown of internal components in the battery or a crack in the case.
Lawn and garden batteries with 12 volts, including those for riding lawn mowers, are group U1 batteries. Two types of U1 batteries exist. It is important to match the U1 battery design to your lawn mower.
U1L: Sometimes shortened to U1, this type of battery indicates that the positive terminal will be on the left side when installing the battery.
U1R: This type of battery has a positive terminal on the right side when installing the battery.
U1L and U1R batteries have the same internal design. The only difference between the two designs is the position of the positive and negative terminals.
Lawn mower batteries don’t have much technology that sets one apart from another. However, there are a few features to keep in mind as you shop.
“Cold cranking amps” is a measure of the amount of electrical current the battery can deliver at the start. A higher number of cranking amps gives the battery better results when starting in low temperatures.
Selecting a battery with too few cranking amps may leave the mower unable to start in cooler weather. Even if the mower starts, a battery with a low number of cranking amps may cause steady damage to the battery, shortening its lifespan.
You will pay more for a mower battery with a higher number of cranking amps. Notably, though, a battery with a greater number of cranking amps than required doesn’t provide additional benefits.
A lawn mower battery should have its capacity listed somewhere in the product specifications. Capacity refers to the ability of the battery to hold power. The capacity of the battery should be compatible with the needs of your mower.
Battery makers measure capacity in amp hours, or Ah. A battery with a larger capacity costs more, but it should provide better overall performance than a battery with a smaller capacity.
The vast majority of lawn tractor batteries operate at 12 volts. However, if you have a high-performance lawn mower that requires or can use extra voltage, you may be able to use a special type of battery that has up to 40 volts.
For a 12-volt battery that’s made for a riding lawn mower, you could pay a wide range of prices. Understand that the battery you choose must precisely fit your lawn mower, so if only a few batteries are compatible with your mower, it may be harder to find one in your desired price range.
Inexpensive: The least-expensive riding lawn mower batteries cost $15 to $35. These may not work well in cold temperatures and typically have a low capacity.
Mid-range: The middle price range for riding lawn mower batteries is $35 to $60. These batteries deliver a solid performance with the capacity needed to keep your lawn mower running well.
Expensive: High-end mower batteries cost anywhere from $60 to $300. These batteries have large capacities and plenty of cold cranking amps. Often, they have a special design, extra voltage, or a size that is unique to your lawn mower model.
Here are some tips to help you maximize the lifespan of your riding lawn mower battery.
Q. How can I test my lawn mower battery?
A. You can use a digital multimeter to test the battery’s charge. The reading on the meter will show you whether the battery has begun to lose its ability to hold a charge and needs replacement. For a 12-volt battery system, a reading of 10.5 volts or higher indicates a viable battery. If the reading is under 10.5 volts, use a maintenance charger to try to approach 12 volts.
Q. How will I know if my riding lawn mower battery needs charging or testing?
A. If your riding lawn mower sits idle for a long time, such as over the winter, the battery may need recharging before it is able to start. If the mower becomes difficult to start or only clicks when you turn the start key, it could be a sign that the battery needs replacing.
Q. Should I clean the terminals on the battery?
A. If the battery seems to be malfunctioning, you can try cleaning the terminals. A corroded terminal will not work properly. Corrosion appears as a bluish-green or white growth on and around the terminals. Mix baking soda with a bit of water, and lightly scrub the terminals with a toothbrush to clean them.