Extra-large cage is big enough for most full-grown rabbits, plus their litter pan. Fairly easy to assemble. Deep tray keeps bedding inside the cage, owners report. Very easy to clean. Built-in food bowl holder prevents spills.
Assembly instructions aren’t very clear. Included water bottle may leak. Hay bin attaches clumsily to the side of the cage, creating a mess when moved. End caps tend to fall off. Owners report they can’t get replacement parts.
Sturdy construction and attractive style are big draws for owners. Assembly is fairly easy, with clear instructions.
Can get a bit small for full-grown rabbits. Tray is difficult to pull out and clean. Moisture soaks into wood base, creating odor and potentially causing rot. Rabbits tend to push out their bedding through the sides of the cage.
Easy to clean, with extra-wide doors. Sturdy shelves don’t need to be detached for cleaning, saving time. Owners like the configurability of this cage.
Somewhat difficult to put together – a helper, rubber mallet and elbow grease needed. Bedding tray is too shallow, letting rabbits kick debris out of cage.
Removable bedding tray is sturdy, owners note. Plenty of height, and double doors are a nice plus.
Some owners would like a cage that is longer for larger rabbits. Small rabbits may have trouble with the side door. Assembly is a bit annoying due to cage hooks catching. Metal bars can bend out of shape. High-sided plastic protectors are delicious to some rabbits.
Good for smaller rabbits, owners report. Very easy to put together. Works well indoors as well as outside.
Cage floor pieces don’t stay in place when moving hutch; many owners remove them altogether. Must be staked down outside to prevent predators from lifting the cage up. Door latch seems flimsy. Too small for some adult rabbits.
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A rabbit cage provides a safe, warm space where your furry friend can eat and sleep in comfort. It also offers you peace of mind, knowing that your pet is safe from the outside elements and predators that may be lurking around.
But, if you choose the wrong rabbit cage, the very thing that was supposed to keep your pet safe could end up harming it instead. Tough wire floors can cause sores on rabbits’ delicate feet, and a cage that’s difficult to clean could leave your rabbit in an unhealthy environment.
Fortunately, it’s easy to avoid these problems by understanding the factors that matter most when choosing a rabbit cage. Here’s a guide to all of the key features you need to consider in order to find the rabbit cage that will keep your bunny comfortable and secure.
When choosing a rabbit cage, the two most important things to think about are the size and durability of the cage.
It’s crucial that you choose a cage that’s large enough for your rabbits so that they have enough space to move around comfortably. The right size will depend on two factors: how many rabbits you have and how big they are. The general rule of thumb is to choose a cage that’s four times larger than the rabbit. This comes out to about a 24” by 36” cage for rabbits under 8 pounds or a 30” by 36” cage for larger rabbits. Your rabbit should be able to stand up on its hind legs in the cage without hitting the ceiling.
Obviously, the more rabbits that will be sharing the cage, the larger it will need to be. If you have some baby rabbits, base the size of the rabbit cage on how large you anticipate them being when they’re fully grown. Rabbits grow quickly, and if you purchase a cage that’s just large enough for it when it’s young, it won’t be long before the cage is too restrictive.
Your rabbit cage should be sturdy with bars that don’t bend easily. It should also be strong enough for you to move it around without it falling apart.
You’ll also want to pay attention to the material the cage bars are made out of. Some are galvanized so they won’t rust — a good option if you plan to use the cage outdoors where it could be exposed to rain or damp conditions. Other cages have plastic- or powder-coated bars. Some like the look of plastic-coated cages better, but these aren’t ideal if your rabbit is prone to chewing because it’s not uncommon for rabbits to chew the plastic coating right off of the bars over time.
Never line your rabbit cage with cedar or pine shavings. Their aromatic oils may be harmful to your rabbit.
Rabbit cages may either have a solid floor or a wire floor. The wire floor is appealing to many because it allows droppings to fall through the floor and into a detachable tray underneath. When you want to clean the cage, all you need to do is slide the tray out, clean it and slide it back in. Solid floors, on the other hand, make cleaning more difficult because you must take the rabbit out of the cage and scrub the floor to remove the droppings.
In general, solid floors are the better way to go because wire floors are known to cause sores on rabbits’ delicate feet, especially in larger, heavier breeds. If you end up going with a rabbit cage that has a wire floor, it’s a smart idea to lay down some type of a solid floor over part of the cage so your rabbit has a place to rest comfortably.
The best rabbit cages will have at least one side door. This way, the rabbit can climb in and out of the cage on its own, which is generally safer than trying to lift the rabbit out through a door on the top of the cage.
You also need to consider the width of the doorway. A wider doorway, or a cage with double doors, is usually best because it makes cleaning the cage much easier. You won’t have as much trouble reaching into the far corners of the cage, and it will be easier for you to take litter trays in and out.
The bedding tray is the bottom part of the cage, which you fill with straw, hay or some other material, and it will vary in depth depending on the cage you choose. Typically, a deeper bedding tray is better than a shallower one. If the tray is too shallow, the rabbit may be able to push some of its bedding out through the bars of the cage, creating a mess.
But the bedding tray shouldn’t be a make-or-break feature in most cases. You can always replace it with a deeper one if you find that the one that is included with the cage is too shallow for your liking.
Your rabbit cage should include instructions to help you figure out how to set up the cage properly. In most cases, this isn’t too difficult, but if the instructions are not clear, it can make the assembly process frustrating.
You can figure out how simple the assembly process is by reading through customer reviews online before you purchase your rabbit cage. Assembly shouldn’t be a huge concern because it’s something you’ll only need to do once, but if you’re torn between two different cages, the simplicity of the assembly process may be a deciding factor.
Built-in food and water
Though uncommon, some rabbit cages include a food tray and a water dispenser. However, these are not always of the highest quality. You may prefer to swap them out for ones that you’ve purchased separately.
When choosing a rabbit cage, you must consider how much space you have in your home for the cage, but the comfort of the rabbit should always come first.
Rabbit cages range in price from about $50 on the low end to $250 on the high end. The cost largely depends on the size of the cage, with larger cages costing more money than smaller ones.
For a durable, large rabbit cage, you can expect to spend between $100 and $150. You may also pay extra for accessories like built-in food trays or a wheeled cage that you can move around.
Straw or hay is the best choice for rabbit cage bedding.
If you plan to litter box train your rabbit, be sure that the cage you choose is large enough to house the litter tray.
Be sure to clean your rabbit’s cage at least once per week to prevent the cage from smelling and becoming an unhealthy environment.
Consider a rabbit cage with wheels if you intend to move the cage around often.
Be sure there are no sharp metal wires around the door that could injure your rabbit while it is climbing in or out of the cage.
The Ferplast Krolik 140 Plus Rabbit Cage has a deep bedding tray to prevent rabbits from kicking the bedding out of the cage. There’s also a small rabbit home, a built-in food tray and a water dispenser. It’s simple to clean because it has a wide door that runs the length of one side of the cage. This makes it easy to reach into any part of the cage. Users report that it is simple to assemble and that it’s large enough to accommodate multiple rabbits.
The Kennel-Aire A Frame Bunny House is another nice option if you’re on a budget. It’s a basic rabbit cage without any frills, like a built-in water dispenser, but it’s large enough for most rabbits and it has wheels to make it easy to transport. Users like how easy it is to assemble, but it does have a wire cage bottom, so you may need to put some sort of flooring down to protect your rabbit’s feet.
Q: Do I need to keep my rabbit in a cage?
A: No, but a cage can offer you peace of mind, especially if your rabbit is not litter trained yet. You won’t need to worry about it leaving droppings all over the house while you’re gone. A cage is also a smart choice if you have other animals in the home who may harm the rabbit.
Q: Can I put more than one rabbit in a rabbit cage?
A: You may be able to if the cage is large enough. It’s always better to err on the side of too large rather than too small. If you have two or more rabbits, purchase an extra-large cage to ensure that they have enough room to play.
Q: Are wooden rabbit cages a smart choice?
A: Some enjoy the look of wooden rabbit cages, but these are not ideal if you’re going to be keeping your rabbit in a damp environment, unless the wood is treated to withstand the elements.
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