Retinol (also called retinoid) is a compound derived from vitamin A, which is essential for growth, healthy bones and organs, and good eyesight. Vitamin A is also an antioxidant, which means it works to fight cell damage. The way retinol works is by stimulating cells on the surface of your skin to rapidly shed so they can be replaced by healthy new cells beneath the top layer of skin.

While the debate continues over the health benefits of many vitamins and supplements, there is no argument about the benefits of retinol creams when it comes to the skin. Dermatologists recommend these products because retinol works, and the science is there to back them up.

Retinol creams are the ultimate multitaskers when it comes to skin care. It’s hard to find another product that promises to do so much.

• Stimulate new skin cell production

• Increase cell turnover

• Slow the breakdown of collagen (a protein found in every part of the body)

• Boost collagen production

• Smooth skin texture

• Firm skin

• Brighten skin

• Improve skin elasticity

• Hydrate skin

• Minimize wrinkles and fine lines

• Fade dark spots

• Curb the production of melanin

• Counteract the effects of sun damage

• Tighten pores

• Decrease acne breakouts

But with the promises come some serious cautions. Retinol creams can cause adverse reactions, particularly if you have very sensitive skin.

• Burning

• Stinging

• Tingling

• Itching

• Swelling

• Peeling

• Redness

• Dryness

• Discoloration
   

Prescription retinoids can be 20 to 100 times more potent than over-the-counter (OTC) retinol creams, and on rare occasions they can cause more serious reactions.

• Hives

• Swelling

• Difficulty breathing
   

Note that too much vitamin A can be toxic, causing liver damage and other serious side effects. Always consult your doctor before using any retinol products on your skin, especially if you’re taking medications or any supplements that contain vitamin A.

There are different formulations of retinol creams to suit different skin types, such as sensitive or oily, and to target different problem areas, such as deep wrinkles, dark spots, or sun damage.

• Retinol eye creams go after the crow’s feet and fine lines that crease the delicate skin around the eyes. While these retinol creams are created for use near the eyes, you should not use these products on the eyelids or allow them to come in contact with the eyes.

• Retinol day creams are lightweight moisturizers that keep skin hydrated during the day. These retinol creams often include sunscreen.

• Retinol night creams are designed to work while you sleep. These retinol creams often have a thicker, heavier texture that may not be suitable for daytime use.

• Retinol serums don’t include the moisturizers that you’ll find in retinol creams. Serums containing retinol have a thin consistency and are highly concentrated. They are intended to be used right after cleansing your skin but before applying moisturizer.

If you’ve never used retinol cream before, OTC retinol creams are milder than prescription creams and the best way to start. A common regimen is to use the retinol cream twice a week for two weeks, and then increase the frequency to three times per week as you build up your skin’s tolerance.

• Clean and dry your skin.

• Smooth a pea-size to dime-size amount of retinol cream on your face. You can also use it on your hands, neck, and décolletage.

• Let the retinol cream fully soak into your skin.

• Apply moisturizer if needed. (If applying retinol in the morning, apply sunscreen.)

• If you experience burning or stinging, you can wash off the retinol cream after 15 minutes and still reap most of the benefits.

• If your skin becomes irritated, stop using the retinol cream for a few days.

• If your skin tolerates the retinol cream, you can gradually increase use to every night.

The price of OTC retinol cream varies depending on the brand, the size of the container, and the concentration of retinol in the formula (although that percentage is not always indicated on the packaging, and manufacturers aren’t required to say). You can expect to pay between $4 and $100 per ounce of retinol cream or serum, although there are some bargain-priced spa-size containers available for less. Prescription retinoids usually cost more, but these formulations are much more potent and work more quickly.

• Check with your dermatologist before using retinol cream. Retinol can cause skin irritation if used with skin care products that contain salicylic acid, sulfur, or benzoyl peroxide.

• Pregnant or nursing women should talk with their doctor before using retinol products.

• Start using retinol in the summer. A good time to begin a retinol cream regimen is during the summer because the humidity in the air will keep your skin from drying out as it adjusts.

• Use sunscreen. Sunscreen and retinol cream make the best “anti-aging” combo out there. Use SPF 30 sunscreen to help stave off the effects of sun damage and aging.

• Look for retinol creams in airtight containers. Heat, UV rays, and oxygen can cause retinol to break down and lose potency. Look for “stabilized” or “encapsulated” in the product’s description, terms that indicate the retinol won’t degrade.

Q. When will I see results from using retinol cream?
A. If you’re using OTC retinol cream, you can usually expect to see results, such as diminished wrinkles or crow’s feet, faded age spots, and smoother skin, within three to six months, although some products claim you will see a difference in as little as one week. After six months or a year, your results may plateau, in which case you might want to move on to a stronger formulation. If you’re using a prescription retinoid, you could see results in as little as four weeks, but you are most likely to see results in six to eight weeks.

Q. Can I use a retinol cream if I have sensitive skin?
A. You should always check with your dermatologist before beginning any new skin care regimen. That said, you should be able to use retinol cream if you choose a product described as hypoallergenic or specifically formulated for sensitive skin. If you have sensitive skin, begin using retinol slowly, such as twice a week. Increase your usage only when you’re sure your skin can tolerate it. However, some people have extremely sensitive skin and may never be able to use retinoids.

Q. What strength retinol cream should I use?
A. The answer to that question depends entirely on your skin. It’s true that products with high concentrations of retinol (up to 2%) offer more dramatic benefits more quickly, but they can also potentially cause more side effects. Even if you have deep wrinkles or very dark spots you want to treat, you should start with the lowest concentration (.01%), and work your way up as you see how your skin tolerates the cream. These creams are packed with other beneficial ingredients and hydrating compounds, too, so you will be doing your skin lots of good even at the lower concentrations of retinol. Also, note that not all OTC retinol creams list the concentration.