Buying guide for best riding lawn mowers

A riding lawn mower is a wise investment, but finding the right one can be a daunting process. Advice abounds on the internet and elsewhere, but much of it comes from manufacturers themselves.

When faced with questions about a large purchase like this, it helps to get an unbiased opinion. That's where the BestReviews team steps in. We’re proud to deliver a complete, balanced view of the options available to you. 

We identified five riding lawn mowers, also known as lawn tractors, that deliver top performance and superb value. Each hails from a respected manufacturer, and each provides an excellent fit for particular needs. Please see our product list, above, for information about these fine products.

And if you want more in-depth information on the subject, please delve into our shopping guide, below.

For large plots of land, a riding mower is a better choice as it has a larger bag for storing the cut grass clippings. Be sure to empty the bag before it overfills to avoid choking the engine.

Size

The size of your land helps dictate the size of mower you should buy. You might need a simple walk-behind mower, or you might need a riding mower with a cutting deck of 30, 40, or 50 inches.

• If your plot is smaller than 1/2 acre, a walk-behind lawn mower could be your best bet. That said, we realize that ride-on mowers are a godsend to those with reduced mobility. We trust you, the consumer, to know your needs and limitations.
• If you plan to mow 1/2 to 1 acre at a time, a riding mower with a 30- to 40-inch cutting deck is ideal.
• If you’ll be tackling 1 to 2 acres, a 38- to 48-inch cutting deck fits the bill. Please note that some overlap with the previous category is natural; it would be unfair to consign one manufacturer’s 38-inch mower to areas of only one acre when other elements make it perfectly capable of handling larger patches.
• Land plots of 2 acres and up fare well with decks of 46 to 54 inches. These are big, expensive machines. A smaller ride-on mower could feasibly do the job, but if you're looking to save time, consider the benefits of a high-capacity machine.

Body type

Two significant riding mower types exist on today’s market. The first is the traditional riding mower that looks pretty much like a smaller version of a real tractor. On this type of mower, the driver changes direction via an ordinary steering wheel.

The second type is the Zero Turn Radius (ZTR) mower. A ZTR’s caster-type front wheels enable the driver to make tight turns (hence the name). The vast majority of ZTRs are steered with lap or upright levers. This feels unusual at first, but once mastered, it allows for faster maneuvering around curved beds, borders, and other intricate areas.

We assess lawn mower motors in our research, making note of important features like horsepower and cylinder type. Our goal is to help consumers find models that would best serve their lawn maintenance needs.

Some of the most popular “extras” we look for in a riding lawn mower are cruise control, headlights, and front and rear mounts for adding attachments.

There are two lawn mower body types available: zero-turn radius mowers and traditional riding mowers. We include both in our assessments and examine the pros and cons of each.

Although gas is the most popular type of riding lawn mower power, some models are powered by electricity. We look at both types in our research, bearing in mind that the technology of electrically powered mowers is still quite new.

We take note of how each riding lawn mower on our research list is steered and how easy it is to steer.

The best riding lawn mower cutting deck size depends on the acreage you must mow. We look at mowers with various cutting deck sizes, noting the measurements that work best for various land dimensions.

There are three types of riding lawn mower transmissions: automatic, manual, and hydrostatic. Each comes with benefits and drawbacks, which we highlight in our assessments.

When shopping for a lawn mower, consumers want to know if a model is durable and easy to operate and maintain. We take this into consideration when choosing our favorite models to recommend.

The torque a riding lawn mower produces determines how well it handles curves, slopes, and hills. We take this into account when we conduct our research.

We assess speed when evaluating a riding lawn mower. Most models top out at 4 to 8 miles per hour.

Motor

Power

A riding mower’s engine splits its power between driving the vehicle forward and turning the blade. As a result, most motors are comparatively large, ranging from an entry-level 400cc to a whopping 700cc+ in the biggest models. Some manufacturers prefer to quote specs in terms of horsepower. Invariably, more hp is better!

Speed and torque

Regardless of how the manufacturer describes the motor’s power, you can count on a speed of about four to eight mph. This is more than adequate for mowing, especially on uneven ground. Equally important to a machine’s mph rate is the fact that a more powerful motor generates more torque. Torque plays a vital role in the effective turning of the cutter blade.

Cylinders

Riding mower engines are either single cylinder or v-twin. The latter runs smoother and lasts longer than the former, but v-twins are also pricier and trickier to maintain.

Gas vs. electric

All the motors we've discussed so far run via gas power. Electric motors have made their debut on the market, but they remain expensive by comparison. What’s more, people criticize their lack of power, short run time, and long recharge time.

As technology marches on, electrically powered riding mowers are certain to improve, but we cannot recommend one at this moment in time.

Transmission types

Should you buy a riding mower with manual, automatic, or hydrostatic transmission?

Lots of owners prefer a machine with a manual gearbox. The best modern mowers offer clutchless changing, so you only have a single lever to deal with. But mowers with automatic transmission offer the benefit of smooth power delivery. The speed control is like that of a car; you press down harder if you want to go faster, and you release your foot from the gas to stop. Those who do a lot of stop/start mowing are bound to prefer a ride-on with automatic transmission.

Rather than using the belts or chains of a standard automatic lawn mower, a machine with hydrostatic transmission employs hydraulic oil in a closed system. Riding mowers with hydrostatic transmission are costly but durable, and they require very little maintenance.

2:1

This type of blade cuts grass and releases the clippings into a rear-mounted bag or via a side discharge for later collection. 2:1 describes the double action of discharging and bagging. The “high lift” version of a 2:1 performs the same function but with greater clearing efficiency and airflow.

Blade types

All riding mowers feature one of two blade types. The first is the 2:1 blade. The 2:1 also has a variation called the high lift. The second is the mulching blade.

Mulching blade

A mulching blade is typically more curved than a 2:1, and you’ll often see mulching blades with extra cutting edges. This blade produces fine clippings that don't require collection; they can be left on the lawn as mulch.

On the downside, mowing with a mulching blade consumes more time. These blades don’t “throw” as well as 2:1 and high lift blades, and damp grass can clog the blades. However, there are no clippings to empty.

Extras and accessories

As you search for a new riding lawn mower, you may wish to consider products with the following extras and accessories:

• Automatic parking brakes
• Cruise control
• Deck wheels (to help maintain cutter height)
• Deck wash port (for easier cleaning)
• Headlights
   

In addition to these cool features, a number of front- and rear-mounted attachments can extend the use of your mower beyond just cutting grass. Not all riding lawn mowers can accommodate these attachments, however. It depends on the model.

Optional front-mounted attachments include dozer blades/plows, snow blowers/throwers, scoops, and lawn dethatchers. Optional rear-mounted attachments include various dump carts, dethatchers, leaf sweepers, lawn aerators, rollers, and spreaders.

Before investing in a particular model, ask yourself if the product will be able to help you complete the tasks you do the most. For example, if you aerate your lawn four times a year, a riding mower that cannot accommodate an aerator is probably not the best choice for you.

A Note About Attachment Safety

Any attachment you add to your riding lawn mower could potentially interfere with its center of gravity and, therefore, its stability. Make sure the riding mower you buy can safely accommodate the add-on attachments you want. For example, some mowers have a lower center of gravity than others and are therefore more accommodating of attachments on the back.

Price

The five riding lawn mowers in our product list represent a fairly accurate spread of prices in the homeowner bracket. When shopping for a riding mower, keep the following price tips in mind:

• You’re unlikely to find a quality machine for under $1,000.
• A compact ride-on with a cutting deck of 30 to 36 inches normally costs between $1,200 and $1,400.
• Mid-range riding lawn mowers with cutting decks in the 38- to 48-inch range are common, and good ones vary in price from $1,500 to $2,500. ZTR models tend to cost even more; expect to shell out a few hundred dollars beyond the cost of an equivalent “ordinary” ride-on. This sector of the market is quite competitive.
• Large riding lawn mowers can run up to five figures. ZTR models are common in this price bracket. Nevertheless, our research suggests that you can find excellent, high-performance models with cutting decks in the 50- to 56-inch range for $3,000 to $4,000.

Care & maintenance

Luke recommends that you post a written tracker on your wall or computer that monitors your adherence to a regular schedule. Use this schedule to remain mindful of the following:

• Regular oil change
• Air filter replacement
• Blade sharpening
• Fuel filter maintenance
• Spark plugs
• Grease points
• Any other pertinent aspects of your mower’s maintenance
• Riding lawn mower maintenance is fairly straightforward. Like any motor, oil levels should be checked regularly and the oil changed periodically. Filters also require replacement from time to time.
   

Before you begin any at-home maintenance, always ensure the ignition is turned off. It's also a good idea to disconnect the battery terminal or spark plug wires so the mower can't be started by accident.

Maintenance tasks specific to the mower components are as follows:

• Check tire pressure. Incorrect inflation can cause poor grip and an uncomfortable ride.
• Check shields/guards. If cracked or worn, replace immediately.
• Check linkages, wheel nuts, and other connectors.
• Inspect the blade carefully. If it's blunt, it won't cut well. If it's loose, bent, or cracked, it could cause damage or injury. Never run a damaged blade.

• Brush waste material off the unit after use. Your prompt attention ensures that debris won’t harden onto the mower, and moisture won’t rust the machine. Exercise caution around the engine and exhaust, which will still be hot.
• Don't use a vacuum or other mechanical cleaner near gasoline in case of sparks.
• Check your cutting deck periodically to ensure that it’s level. If it's not, that means the blade is rotating at an angle, impairing efficiency.
   

Always follow manufacturer recommendations if performing your own maintenance, or ask a professional to service your riding lawn mower.

You can get a riding lawn mower for as low as $1,000, but prices can elevate to ten times that amount. Pricier models come with luxury features such as cruise control and even cup holders. Many make you feel just as comfortable as you would riding in a car.

A special note about blade sharpening

One of the most important steps you can take toward successful maintenance of your riding lawn mower is regular blade sharpening. As a general rule of thumb, Luke advises that you sharpen your blades after every eight hours of use. If you cut grass for two hours per week, this means that you’ll need to sharpen your blades every month.

Establish a plan for how you will remove the blades from the mower, and follow a safety protocol when you do. In many cases, it makes sense to buy your own sharpening grinder and complete the task yourself.

Sharp blades are important to the health of your mower, but that’s not all. If you fail to mow your lawn with a sharp blade, you will soon see yellow tips develop on your grass, ruining the look of what otherwise might be a green and healthy lawn.