Includes wheel chock, front tire strap, rear ratchet tie-downs, and mounting plate. For use with all sizes of motorcycles. Easy to install and mount/dismount a bike. Very sturdy. D-rings with backing plates included.
Minimal instructions on how to use. Strap ratchets are not the best quality. Some found this hard to use with a narrow trailer.
Designed for storage, transport, and maintenance. 1,500 lb. capacity. Made from high-grade, heavy-duty alloy steel. Fits most 16"-21" front wheels. Easy single-person loading and unloading. Very sturdy. Has 4 nonslip rubber feet.
Some reports of it arriving scratched or missing hardware. Locking mechanism is of poor quality.
Made from durable steel, with a textured powder coating. Fits most 17"-21" wheels. Heavy-duty strength. Easy to assemble. Decent price. Also available in a deluxe version, which comes with tie-downs.
Some reports of weak hardware/bolts. The chock itself is a little wide; narrow tires may float around in it too much.
This adjustable chock fits most motorcycle wheels. Constructed from heavy-duty formed steel, with a durable powder-coated finish. Easy to install. Holds securely. Heavy, solid construction.
Works best bolted down to a trailer or other surface; hard to load or unload a bike on it if it is not bolted down. Some reports of this option arriving damaged or used.
1,800 lb. capacity. Solid steel construction. Rust resistant. Fits front and rear wheel motorcycles 15"-22". Has 2 eye loops so you can tie straps to it. Easy assembly. Well made.
If the wheel chock is not mounted to a floor or trailer, it can be difficult to get a bike on and off it. Some reports of it arriving missing parts such as bolts or cotter pins.
We purchase every product we review with our own funds — we never accept anything from product manufacturers.
We purchase every product we review with our own funds — we never accept anything from product manufacturers.
For most people, a motorcycle wheel chock is a device that helps secure your bike on a pickup, van, or trailer to get it safely from point A to point B. It’s certainly what they’re designed for, but it’s not all they offer.
A growing number of motorcycles don’t have a full stand, and often you want your bike upright when you work on it. A wheel chock can do that. Many can take the front or rear wheel, giving you added versatility. Then there’s the anti-theft aspect. Bolt a wheel chock to your garage floor, and then chain your motorcycle to it. It’s an extra deterrent, particularly with off-road or pit bikes that would otherwise be easy to lift into a thief’s waiting vehicle.
While all motorcycle wheel chocks provide the same basic function, there are a number of approaches. We’ve been looking at what’s currently available so we can help you choose the right model for your bike. We’ve made a number of recommendations that cover most of your price and performance options, and our buying guide looks at the important features in more detail.
There are lots of small differences between motorcycle wheel chocks, but, basically, they’re divided into two types: those don’t lock the wheel in place and those that do.
Non-locking: These are basically little more than a steel hoop that the wheel rests inside. They hold the bike roughly upright, depending on the width of the frame and the relative size of the tire. However, on even a slight incline, your motorcycle could roll free and fall over. Using tie-down straps in addition to the wheel chock is always recommended when transporting the motorcycle, but with these models it’s an absolute must.
Locking: The locking (also called pivoting) type of wheel chock use a very simple and straightforward principle: as your motorcycle wheel rolls over a hinged plate, the weight of it causes the plate to clamp up behind the wheel. A front hoop or V-shaped barrier stops it moving forward. Although the term “locking” is widely used, there isn’t an actual lock, so “automatic clamping” might be a better description. While the wheel is certainly held firmly, modest backward force is all that’s normally required to release it. Most chocks of this type have a degree of adjustability to suit different sizes of motorcycle wheels.
Tire width is also a consideration. Some custom motorcycles — classic “choppers,” for example — have quite narrow front wheels. Non-locking chocks could allow the bike more freedom of movement than you want, potentially causing damage. The locking versions restrict that. It’s perhaps not a big deal if you’re using the motorcycle wheel chock at home, but it’s an important difference if you and your bike are on the move.
How safe is your motorcycle? Most garage doors don’t present much of a barrier to a thief, but if they then find your bike is anchored to a wheel chock set into the floor, they’re more likely to have second thoughts.
Motorcycle wheel chocks are usually fabricated from aluminum or steel. Aluminum has the advantage of being quite a lot lighter, and it doesn’t rust, but it isn’t as strong. If you have a lightweight motorcycle, aluminum is a viable option. With big cruisers or touring motorcycles, we’d be inclined to go with steel.
We did find one manufacturer making plastic wheel chocks, which it claims are kinder to tires. However, these chocks do need to be a very precise fit for the wheels, and there’s no adjustability. Given that the range is limited, and the plastic chocks are no cheaper than steel ones, we can’t really see a good reason for choosing them.
Durability: Check that the material has a substantial cross section, so it’s not going to bend easily. Look for good weld quality. If you choose steel chocks, they might be painted or powder coated. The latter is much more durable. Areas that hinge should have plenty of support because they will wear more quickly.
Safety: Check that no part of the structure is likely to foul the motorcycle’s brake rotor or mudguards.
Adjustments: How easy is wheel-size adjustment? Snap fasteners speed things up.
Supports: Some chocks have arms that extend to the side. These provide additional support to combat the forces generated when you turn a corner and prevent the bike toppling to the left or right. These supports often have small adjustable feet to compensate for any irregularities in the vehicle floor.
Fitting kit: If you’re going to permanently fit the chock into a vehicle, it may just be a question of bolting it down. Some have a fitting kit. Check if one is included in the price. Some fitting kits allow for fast removal, which is useful if you want to transport motorcycles in more than one vehicle.
Although a motorcycle wheel chock will keep your bike upright, if you’re transporting it, you should always secure it with straps or tie-downs. It’s also recommended that you put the bike in gear.
Ratchet straps: Rhino USA Heavy-Duty Ratchet Tie-Down Kit
If you’re transporting your motorcycle in a truck or van, your wheel chock will keep it upright, but you still need to secure it properly. A set of good ratchet straps is indispensable. We like these from Rhino because the material is extremely tough (over 5,000-pound breaking strength), the hooks are coated for durability, and the chunky handles make for fast, easy tightening even when you’re wearing gloves.
Motorcycle lock: AKM Security Bike Lock and Chain
Disc and handlebar locks are convenient to carry around, but serious motorcycle thieves can simply lift your bike and throw it in a van. For top protection at home, bolt your wheel chock into the floor, then chain your motorcycle to it with this cut-resistant, hardened steel chain and shackle. It provides added security when you’re out on the road, too, giving you the option of attaching your bike to an immovable object.
Check the minimum and maximum wheel diameter the chock can accommodate. Some run from 14 to 22 inches, but not all chocks cover that wide a range.
Inexpensive: The cheapest steel tube-type motorcycle wheel chocks cost less than $20. Though some are well made and nicely finished, they are more of a wheel rest and don’t actually secure the wheel. If it’s all you need, the better ones are around $35.
Mid-range: Chocks that actually lock your wheel in position start at around $50, with lots of choices between that and around $90. These are basic but strong and offer plenty of support.
Expensive: Heavy-duty motorcycle wheel chocks and those with extension bars for greater flexibility of fitting position cost anywhere from $150 to $250. A few include tie-down straps to give you complete transportation security in one kit.
If you just need a simple wheel rest for a dirt bike or other relatively lightweight model, the Pit Posse Wheel Chock offers options for either permanent or removable fitting, and all the mounting hardware is included.
The kafe Motorcycle Wheel Chock is ideal if you need to transport motorcycles in different vehicles. Extension bars are used to stretch across to the sides of the vehicle bed or trailer, and outriggers keep it stable without the need to bolt it down. It will fit a floor space anywhere from 51 to 87 inches wide, though it doesn’t actually lock the wheel, so tie-downs are vital.
The Condor SC1500/E-Track Chock is perhaps the most flexible model on the market. It’s capable of taking just about any motorcycle wheel size, and it supports up to 3,000 pounds. It locks into E-Track that can be fitted in vehicles either across or lengthwise. However, it is one of the most expensive models, and the E-Track is extra.
Q. How do I know if the wheel chock is strong enough for my motorcycle?
A. Almost all manufacturers provide a weight rating, and it’s good to have a safety margin. We looked into motorcycle weights, and the heaviest we found was the Harley-Davidson CVO Road Glide Ultra at around 960 pounds. Given that most chocks are good for 1,500 pounds or more, you should be fine whatever you ride. However, it’s also important to look at the points mentioned above to make sure the chocks have adequate strength and durability.
Q. Is it easy to fit a motorcycle wheel chock to my truck?
A. If you’re comfortable with a basic tool set, it shouldn’t present a problem. All the models we looked at had holes for bolting them down, so it’s a question of finding bolts of a suitable length and holes in your truck or van to fit them. Many people fit a plywood subfloor rather than drill through the vehicle’s bodywork. The alternative is something like the kafe wheel chock, which has extension bars designed to fit across the bed of your truck or trailer. Permanent fixing isn’t necessary.
Q. What’s the difference between a wheel chock and a wheel dock?
A. Though they sound similar (we have heard motorcycle wheel chocks called wheel docks), in general, the term “wheel dock” means a circular device designed to stop a trailer’s tongue wheel (the small front one) from sinking into soft ground.
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